Currently Browsing: Pinot Noir

**** Chez Ray Pinot / Zin (Zinfandel), Valley Oaks Vineyard, Lodi, CA, 2003

This is a combination of pinot noir and zinfandel from 2003 vintage Lodi grapes, fermented with Pasteur Red yeast and pressed at dryness.

In the glass, this is light to medium red.  Served at room temperature, aromas are a bright and blooming red raspberry fruit.

The palate is sweet, rich and layered, showing ripe, ripe red currant, elements of sweet pepper and ash, and a lively - but not overpowering - acidity.  Wonderful highs and lows, easy sweetness and still some drama. Four stars. Terrific for Lodi grapes.

** Chez Ray Pinot Noir (P4), 2004, Lodi, CA

By way of background: The Chez Ray Pinot Noir, 2004, was made from Lodi grapes, fermented warm, with a combination of French and American oak.

In the glass: Deep pink-red with a brickish cast.

On the nose: Overcooked, almost baked, red berry fruits. A bit of motor oil with the overcooked stew. Nothing to write home about (except maybe to say, "Get me outa here!").

On the palate: Far more presentable on the palate. Sweet red fruits on the mid-palate, not cloying, but fresh. Just a touch of vegetable in there too. Firm, lightly acid, sweet and still rich, a touch of tannin move in after the acids subside.

And the finish: Rests with the acids, then moves to a bit of grip with the tannins.

In summary: I may have overstayed the storage with this one, feels overripe. Two stars, because I can't see hurrying back. Kind of jangled overall. Pinot's a tough wine to get right - my 2004 vintage seems not to have done the trick.


Blending the 2005′s: Tough Work but SOMEONE’S got to do it!

Further explore wine blending.

Start with eight or ten single varietals from a vintage that is getting ready to be drinkable, line 'em up and figure out the blends that may work. A hundred sips later, you may have a few workable blends.

Indeed, for the 2005's, I did manage a couple worth noting.

PM5 (Carneros Sonoma Pinot Noir(P5)/Carneros Napa Merlot 2005 (M'5)): First, the Sonoma Pinot Noir (P5) is still taut - but mixing with 1/2 measure of another bright varietal, the Carneros Napa Merlot (M'5) gives it just a bit of fruit and brightness. So this combo, which I'll code as PM5, is probably a good serving option for the 2005 Pinot Noir for the longer term. Corlor is deep ruby red. Aromatics are subtle, with a touch of red currant fruit. Bright palate, but spreading clean fruit in the middle. Still some tannins for age. Clean finish. I like this better than either of the components, so that makes for a successful blend.

B5 (Bordeaux blend 2005: State Lane Yountville Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (CS5)/Carneros Sonoma Merlot (M5)/Russian River Sonoma Cabernet Franc (F5)): Each of these wines had a similar style - ready to drink, silky, lightly aromatic. Together, they comprise an excellent blend. In the glass, very deep red, hints of brick. Aromas are solid, sweet and yielding, just a little bit leafy. On the palate, a lightly sweet, bold and balanced attack in the front - wonderful tannins, aromatic deep red fruits, outstanding lingering finish. One of the best ever from Chez Ray! Each of the components is an outstanding offering in its own right, but I loved the balance in the blend.

A5 (Aromatic blend 2005: Russian River Sonoma Zinfandel (Z5)/Rutherford Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (CR5)): Both of these wines were stand-outs as aromatically-rich, quite youthful, bright wines. The combo makes a uniquely potent, aromatic blend. Color is very deep red, almost opaque. Nose is rich, sweet and inky - black sweet ink that you want to guzzle from the fountain pen like it's a lick'em'aid stick. On the palate, a sweet, viscous, peppery assault runs across your mouth. The powerful tannins stick to the roof and sides of your mouth, bringing the rich, black nectar slowly down. Takes a minute or more to dislodge from the crevices. Awesomely lingering finish. Not for the faint of heart. Sweet steroids. Can mellow out for years to come.

Rating: *** 2005 Chez Ray Pinot Noir (P5), Carneros, Sonoma County CA

Original Review, April 2007: This wine is from the Brehm frozen grape series. Early tasting notes from our tasting party are here. Wine is medium brick in color. The nose pushes smoky fruit. On the palate, the tannins are most noticeable, a smoky fruit comes second. But the fruit is very shy. The acidity is bracing and the wine is powerfully dry - kind of like taking raspberries, removing their sugar, then drying them. We're still waiting for the sun to shine on the fruit in this one. I'm not sure that aging will do it. Two and a half stars out of five.


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Updated Review, Sept 2008: Color and aromas are consistent with 2007 tasting. Interesting in the palate, though... the middle is still smoky and charred, but surrounded now with a sweeter, almost round berry fruit. Still acidic, but now it's at least wearing clothes. Moving to three stars because it has regained promise for the future.

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Updated Review, Nov 2008: Color consistent. Aroma picking up a bit of smoky basement overtones. Fruit still building. Recommend another couple of years and/or blend with a too-fruit-forward wine - perhaps the Lodi Zin. Hmmm...

OK, just tried the blend: 2005 Pinot Noir plus 2005 Lodi Zinfandel, 65/35. Color: pale red. Aroma: basement with a fruit lift. Palate: still stingy, puckery tannins, now with a hint of fruit. At 50/50 blend: Color: paler red. Aroma: fruity with a charcoal twist. Palate: Light fruit middle at first, follows with a touch of charry acids. Pleasant, but seems to have lost the pinot noir character. Thus, I would stick with the 65% pinot noir/ 35% zinfandel as the preferred mix.

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Updated Blend, June 2009: Tried a 65% P5 2005 Pinot Noir with 35% Z5 2005 Russian River Zinfandel - similar to the blend above, but with the Lodi zin substituted with the Russian River zin. Color: medium red. Aroma: bright zin vegetable. Palate: Tight acidic fruit in center, but sweetening just a touch at the edges. Better than P5 alone; not as nice as Z5 alone.